Sewing Business Blog

How To Make A Drawstring Waistband

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        A drawstring waistband is made in the same way as the “self band” for an elastic waistband.  Make an eyelet either by using a small machine buttonhole or by inserting plastic or metal eyelets (A).  These should be placed 1” on either side of the center front in the middle of the waistband casing.

          Edge stitch, overlock or press the upper edge of the casing area.  Fold the casing at the fold line (B) and stitch the waistband casing down at the original waistline and press.

          Topstitch the waistband casing  (C), making a double row of topstitching 3/8” wide in the middle of the waistband casing (NOTE: Adjust the width of the double row of topstitching and the size of the eyelet or buttonhole to accommodate the width of the drawstring.

          Cut a length of drawstring at least 72” long to tunnel into the casing.  Tunnel the drawstring through the double row of topstitching, starting at one of the eyelet buttonholes.  Finish tunneling the drawstring at the other eyelet buttonhole.  A small safety pin attached to one end of the drawstring may be helpful to push it through the tunnel.  Evenly space the waistline fullness.

        These “how to” tutorials are an excerpt from our book “Basic Clothing Construction”.   This book is a handy addition to have in your sewing room, so you can refer to the various sewing tips and tutorials at any time.

How To Make An Elastic Waistband (Self Band)

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There are actually two types of elastic waistbands – a “self” band and a “separate” band.  Today we’re going to cover the steps in making the “self” band type elastic waistband.

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          The self band elastic waistband can only be made when the garment has not been dart-fitted at the waistline.  Cut the garment with an extension above the waistline (A) that is twice the width of the elastic plus 3/8”.  Mark the waistline with a basting thread.  Cut a length of elastic to fit snugly around the waist plus ½”.

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          Edge stitch, overlock or press the upper edge of the waist area (A).  Fold the casing at the fold line to the inside of the garment.  Stitch the waistband casing down at the original basted waistline, leaving about 2” not sewn at one side seam 

          To insert the elastic, attach a safety pin at one end of the elastic (C), and tunnel the elastic through the casing starting at the unsewn casing area and pushing the closed safety pin/elastic through the casing.  Push the pin/elastic around through the casing to the same opening, being careful to keep the other end of the elastic outside of the casing. 

          Overlap the elastic ends (D) and machine stitch the ends securely.  Evenly space the waistline fullness (E) and stitch through each seam allowance at the casing to stop elastic from twisting later when worn or washed.  Then stitch the opening closed.

         These “how to” tutorials are an excerpt from our book “Basic Clothing Construction”.   This book is a handy addition to have in your sewing room, so you can refer to the various sewing tips and tutorials at any time.

Working With Waistbands And Facings

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          There are several ways to finish the waistline of skirts and slacks.  The straight waistband is the most familiar and the most popular, but a stretch waistband  or a simple facing may be used.  The pattern will specify a waistline treatment, but a different finish can often be substituted if desired.

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          Straight waistbands are a stable inflexible finish.  They are made to fit the body’s waist measurement plus some allowance for wearing ease. 

          Stretch waistbands are flexible and can be used on knit or woven fabrics.  They can be made of a combination of fabric and elastic or of a decorative elastic.  If a stretch waistband is to be used on a garment without a zipper, the hips should be no more than 10 inches larger than the waist – if the difference is greater, the garment will not pull over the hips and still fit the waist snugly. 

          A facing provides a clean, smooth finish that does not extend above the waistline edge.  Made of a lightweight fabric, it can help reduce bulk.

           Starting next week, we’ll take each one of the waistbands and facings, including straight waistbands, elastic waistbands, drawstring waistbands, etc and show you how to go through each procedure to make the various types of waistbands.

          These “how to” tutorials are an excerpt from our book “Basic Clothing Construction”.   This book is a handy addition to have in your sewing room, so you can refer to the various sewing tips and tutorials at any time.