Sewing Business Blog

How To Make a “Separate Band” Elastic Waistband

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Last week we gave instructions on how to make a “self band” elastic waist band, and today we’re going to make a “separate” band for the elastic waist skirts and slacks.

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          This method is suitable only for knits with stretch, and is the method used by most of the expensive brands of women’s clothing.  Cut the waistband on the crosswise grain of the fabric (A), 4” wide and the same length as the garment waist measurement plus seam allowances.  Join the ends with a 5/8” seam.  Cut 1” wide elastic to fit the body waist snugly plus ½”.  Overlap ½” at the ends and stitch securely.  

          Pin mark the waistband (B), elastic and waistline into fourths.  Matching the pin marks and seams, pin the waistband to the garment with right sides together.  Stitch a 5/8” seam, stretching both pieces of fabric as you sew.  Press the seam as stitched.  

            Lap the elastic over the waistline seam allowance with the bottom edge of the elastic just above the first row of stitching (C).  Using a zig zag stitch, sew the elastic to the seam allowance, stretching it to fit between the pins as you stitch. 

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          Fold the waistband over the elastic to the inside of the garment (D).   Working from the outside, pin the waistband in place, inserting the pins just below the seamline so the excess width of the waistband, on the inside, is caught in the pinning.  Stitch from the right side in the seam groove, stretching the elastic so the waistband is flat.  Trim away the excess seam allowance from the lower edge of the waistband on the inside of the garment.

          These “how to” tutorials are an excerpt from our book “Basic Clothing Construction”.   This book is a handy addition to have in your sewing room, so you can refer to the various sewing tips and tutorials at any time.

How To Make Straight Waistbands

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STRAIGHT WAISTBANDS

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        The straight waistband is the most basic and the most popular of all waistband styles.  The waistband is cut with an extended (self) facing (A) which is then applied to the garment as a flat piece.  The ends are made and finished while it is being applied to the garment.  The length of the waistband should be placed on the lengthwise grain of the fabric for greatest stability.  Cut an apply the interfacing as indicated in the pattern.  Mark the foldline of the waistband by basting by hand through all thicknesses.

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        Pin-mark the waistband and garment into sections, marking the waistband along the edge that will be sewn to the garment.   Place a pin at the beginning of the overlap (B), another at the beginning of the underlap.  Divide the remainder of the band into fourths and pin.  Pin the garment waistline also into four equal parts (C), using the zipper opening as the starting point.

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          With the right sides together (D), pin the waistband to the garment, matching the pin marks and notches.  Stitch along the seamline.  Press the seam flat, then grade the seam allowances.  Press the waistband and seam to the upward position (E).  Next turn the 5/8” seam allowance on the long unstitched edge of the waistband to the wrong side and press. 

            Fold the waistband along the foldline so that the waistband is wrong side out, with the right sides together (F).  Fold the waistband ends in.  Pin at each end and stitch on the 5/8” seamline or press the seam down.  Trim the corners and turn the waistband right side out. 

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         Pull the corners out so they are square (G).  Pin the turned under seam allowance to the garment.  Slipstitch the folded edge to the seamline, making certain that no stitches show through to the outside.  Attach suitable fasteners to the ends of the waistband.

        These “how to” tutorials are an excerpt from our book “Basic Clothing Construction”.   This book is a handy addition to have in your sewing room, so you can refer to the various sewing tips and tutorials at any time.

Working With Waistbands And Facings

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          There are several ways to finish the waistline of skirts and slacks.  The straight waistband is the most familiar and the most popular, but a stretch waistband  or a simple facing may be used.  The pattern will specify a waistline treatment, but a different finish can often be substituted if desired.

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          Straight waistbands are a stable inflexible finish.  They are made to fit the body’s waist measurement plus some allowance for wearing ease. 

          Stretch waistbands are flexible and can be used on knit or woven fabrics.  They can be made of a combination of fabric and elastic or of a decorative elastic.  If a stretch waistband is to be used on a garment without a zipper, the hips should be no more than 10 inches larger than the waist – if the difference is greater, the garment will not pull over the hips and still fit the waist snugly. 

          A facing provides a clean, smooth finish that does not extend above the waistline edge.  Made of a lightweight fabric, it can help reduce bulk.

           Starting next week, we’ll take each one of the waistbands and facings, including straight waistbands, elastic waistbands, drawstring waistbands, etc and show you how to go through each procedure to make the various types of waistbands.

          These “how to” tutorials are an excerpt from our book “Basic Clothing Construction”.   This book is a handy addition to have in your sewing room, so you can refer to the various sewing tips and tutorials at any time.