Sewing Business Blog

Quit Buying Patterns – Redesign Ones You Already Have

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As in a lot of different areas, we have to be creative in thinking of ways to save money.  One of the best ways I’ve found to save money for myself as well as customers I sew for is to change the style of the patterns already in use rather than buy new patterns just to get a different neck style, or different types of sleeves or collars, among other things

By using ONE basic pattern that you know fits well, you can make more clothes than would ever fit in your closet by just learning how to change the neckline into different styles, or how to change the basic sleeve into 10 different styles, or how to make collars to add to the basic pattern.

If you’ve just found out you’re pregnant, don’t go out and try to find nice looking maternity patterns – once again, simply use the patterns you have in your sewing room and convert them into maternity styles.

By doing pattern makeovers on the patterns you already own, you will be able to save probably one hundred or more dollars over the course of a year.  After all, the more you save by not buying patterns, the more money you’ll have to buy fabric!

All of the above mentioned pattern makeover and pattern changing classes are available in three different size ranges:  Petite, Average Size, and Full Figure/Plus Size.

Check out all the pattern making and pattern changing classes at SewWithSarah.com – you’ll be amazed at how many clothing styles you can make from just ONE BASIC pattern that you know fits you perfectly!  And, from now through March 25 ALL the pattern making and pattern changing classes will be discounted 50% by using the code change50.

Attaching And Sewing A Rolled Collar

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We’re back to the tutorials on dealing with the various styles of collars – how to make them and how to attach and sew them.

Today we’re going to talk about how to attach and sew a rolled collar.

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Sew the shoulder seams and any neckline darts before attaching the collar.  Staystitch the garment neck edge to prevent any stretching (A) while putting on the collar.

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After sewing the front and back facings together at the shoulder seams, attach the facing with right side of facing toward the right side of the garment (B).  Pin the facing through the collar and garment pieces, matching the notches and shoulder seams.

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With the facing side up, machine stitch the facing and collar to the garment.  Stitch each side directionally (C), from the center back to the garment front, backstitching at the ends to secure the stitching.  Remove the pins and any basting threads you may have used.

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Press the seam allowances toward the facing (D).  Understitch the neck and garment opening seamlines (E) where necessary.  With the facing side up, stitch close to the seamline through all the seam allowances as indicated with the arrow.  Press the facing to the inside of the garment and tack the facing at the shoulder seams.

Next week we’ll cover how to attach a stand up collar.  These “how to” tutorials are an excerpt from our book “Basic Clothing Construction”.  This book is a handy addition to have in your sewing room, so you can refer to the various sewing tips and tutorials at any time.

Construction Of A Two Piece Rolled Collar

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A ROLLED COLLAR first stands up from the neck edge, then falls down to rest on the garment.

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With right sides together, match the notches and pin the upper collar to the under collar along the outer seam line (A), leaving the neck edges open.  If necessary, stretch the under collar slightly to fit the upper collar.  Machine stitch the outer seam line as shown above.

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Trim and grade the seam allowances, making the seam allowance nearest the upper collar the widest (B).  Trim across the corners and taper the seam allowances on both sides of the corners.  Clip the curved seam being careful not to cut into the stitches.

Press the entire seam open on a tailor’s ham ( c).

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 With the under dollar side up (D), understitch close to the seam line, catching all of the seam allowances.  Turn the collar right side out (E).  Press the collar, working the outer seamline slightly toward the under collar side so that it won’t show from the upper side.

Next week we’ll cover how to attach and sew a rolled collar.  These “how to” tutorials are an excerpt from our book “Basic Clothing Construction”.  This book is a handy addition to have in your sewing room, so you can refer to the various sewing tips and tutorials at any time.

Attaching And Sewing A Flat Collar

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Attaching and sewing a flat collar is not a difficult thing to do.  There are certain procedures to follow, and if you follow these steps with each collar you do, you’ll have perfect looking collars every time.

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Before applying the collar, staystitch the neckline to prevent it from stretching, and sew all darts, seam lines, etc that intersect the neck seam (A).  If the collar consists of two units, as shown above, align and join the two where their neck seam lines meet (sometimes the collars may overlap, depending on the style).

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Match notches, pin and baste the collar to the garment (C) along the neck seam line.  Make sure the point where the two collar units are joined is at the garment center.  Place the neckline facing on top of the collar (D), with the right side of the facing toward the collar.  Match the notches and pin or baste the facing to the collar and garment.  The ends of the facing will extend past the garment as illustrated above.  Machine stitch through all layers being careful to keep the collar/facing/garment in the proper position as has been pinned and basted.

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Press the entire seam open, running the tip of the iron between the facing and collar seam allowances (E).  Next press the facing to the inside of the garment (F).  Tack the facing edge in place at the shoulder seam lines.  Turn the facing ends under at the zipper (G), and slipstitch in place.  The last item it to attach a hook and eye fastener at the top of the zipper to close the opening.

Next week we’ll cover the construction of a two piece rolled collar.  These “how to” tutorials are an excerpt from our book “Basic Clothing Construction”.  This book is a handy addition to have in your sewing room, so you can refer to the various sewing tips and tutorials at any time.