Sewing Tips

Tips For Sewing Specialty Fabrics

September 11, 2018 by Sarah J. Doyle Leave a Comment

Sometimes when we “get on a roll” with the sewing projects we’re doing, it is so easy to simply sew everything using the same type of thread, and not even think about changing the needle when changing fabrics. We’ve collected a variety of tips that we all need to think about before changing from one fabric type to another. Other tips help with purchasing specialty fabrics, cutting the fabrics, storing the fabric or completed garment. There are many variables when working with those specialty fabrics. Here are a few things to think about:

** On some fabrics it is almost impossible to tell the right side from the wrong side. Here are a couple pointers:

A. On tricot or a sweater knit, if you pull on the crosswise “grain”, the fabric will curl to the right side.

B. On double knits, look for the small selvage holes. They will appear to be “pushed in” on the right side.

** And speaking of fabric “curling”, single knits and tricot have a tendency to curl at the edges and make sewing difficult. Try spray starch along the edges – the seams will lay flat for stitching.

** After you’ve cut out a garment from your specialty fabric, make a couple of 8″ squares of the fabric that you can use later to test fusible interfacings on, to test thread colors, or to test stitch length if you’re doing any topstitching. Also use it to make a sample buttonhole if you’ll be needing buttonholes, to check what they will look like before making one on the actual garment.

** In some types of fabric, such as chiffon, you may find the needle will drag the fabric down into the needle hole when you begin to sew. Make sure you are using a fine needle, have the tensions set properly, and if the problem still exists, place a piece of gummed tape over the needle hole in the throat plate of the machine. The tape will prevent the fabric from being “pulled” down, and can be removed easily later.

** The advantages of using silk thread for sewing “drycleanable” fabrics include its strength, elasticity, smooth finish and freedom from tangling. The strength and elasticity makes for longer wear and less popping of seams at points of strain.

** When cutting any type of knit fabric, never let it hang down off the table, as that may stretch it and change the size.

** Some silks are washable – to be sure, take a small square or corner of the fabric and cover it with a damp cotton cloth. Press the cotton cloth with a hot iron for a few seconds. If any color shows on the cotton, the garment should be taken to the dry cleaners. If no color shows, the best way to wash silk is in warm water, by hand, using a mild soap.

** Use extra fine pins for pinning silks – “silk” pins are too coarse for silk.

** When storing sheer or knitted silk, store it flat. If you must hang a silk garment, pad it well with tissue paper and cover it with muslin or other cloth.

** Speaking of silk – if you let your silk garments air dry, they may turn yellow.

** Be very careful if using steam on silk – you may end up with water spots on the garment.

The above tips are an excerpt from the book 500 Kwik and Easy Sewing Tips. This book contains so many tips, you’ll find yourself “bookmarking” every page. And at the super $9.95 price, this may be the most used book in your sewing library!

Altering Store Bought Patterns For Overweight Children – Abdomen

July 17, 2018 by Sarah J. Doyle Leave a Comment

Large abdomen (stomach) is one of the main problems with plus size children, overweight children and obese children. A large abdomen will cause skirts and pants to be too short in front and cause skirts to ride up in the front.

To correct the store bought (commercial) pattern, draw a horizontal line across the fullest part of the abdomen on the pattern. Cut the line, beginning at the center front and cut to within 1/2″ from the side seam. Separate the pieces the necessary amount and tape in place, as indicated. Redraw the center front line, as indicated with dashed lines, from the bottom to the top, keeping the original line straight. This correction will make the waist larger so you will have to make the “fullness” into a small amount of gathers, which would give a little extra fullness for the large tummy.

For more in depth information about altering patterns for overweight children, plus size children and obese children, check out our book “Altering Store Bought Patterns for Hard To Fit Children”. This book contains 70 pages and covers the alteration process for every garment you’d want to make for boys and girls, including large abdomens, large hips and derriere, larger than normal chest, adjusting the crotch length and much more. Each alteration process has step by step instructions and diagrams.

If you’d like to try your hand at making your own patterns for overweight children, plus size children and obese children, we have classes available for both boys and girls! Simply take the measurements of the one you want to sew for and follow our step by step instructions on how to make dozens and dozens of patterns.

Restoring Old Slips – Make Them Like New!

July 5, 2017 by Sarah J. Doyle Leave a Comment

Have you ever noticed how the body of your slip outlives the lace and elastic? Not quite sure how to salvage the slip, so you end up throwing it away? We can help! Here are some suggestions.

Problem: Lace is disintegrating, coming off slip.

Suggestion #1: Remove the old lace and brighten it up with new lace in the width you desire.

Suggestion #2: As so many of the skirts are shorter today, cut the slip to the length for your skirts and then give it a lettuce edge on your serger or a shell edge from your regular sewing machine. Both of these are very attractive and easy to do.

How to do a “lettuce” edging: Use the rolled hem feature on your serger, place the slip edge under the presser foot and as you start sewing gently pull the fabric towards you. You will notice that you are getting a curled decorative edge. The more you pull the fabric, the curlier the edge gets, resembling a lettuce leaf.

How to do a “shell” edge: You will need a zigzag machine for this. Almost all zigzag machines will have a stitch that looks the opposite of the blind hem stitch. Set your machine to sew this stitch. Now, as you fold under 1/4″ on the slip bottom, sew just close enough to the edge that when the needle moves outward it catches the bottom of the fabric, drawing it in towards the other stitching, making little shells or scallops.

Problem: Elastic lost its stretch or coming away from the slip top. There’s nothing worse than walking and all of a sudden you feel your slip falling down. Believe me, I know! It happened to me ONCE!

Suggestion: Replace the elastic! Not sure where to start? Follow the step-by- step instructions given below, and presto! you’ll have a “new” half slip!

1. Remove the old elastic, being careful not to tear the slip.

2. To determine the length of new elastic you’ll need, measure your waist and deduct an inch from that measurement.

3. Choose a “soft elastic” (plush backed, picot edge, fold-over, stretch lace elastic) so that it will feel good against your skin. Cut the elastic to the measurement in step 2.

4. Sew the ends of the elastic together.

5. Divide elastic into fourths. Place straight pins to mark your “fourths”.

6. Divide the top of the half slip into fourths. The seams on the slip already mark the “halves”. Simply bring the seams together, keeping them together. Now run your fingers along the edge – when you get to the end, you have another part of the “fourth”. Repeat this on the other side to get the remaining “fourth”. Again, mark the “fourths” with straight pins.

7. Now all you have to do is match your pins and pin the elastic to the slip. As you sew, stretch the elastic between the pins.. I use a multiple zigzag stitch on my regular sewing machine, with the width usually set at 4 or 5 and a short length.

We have a full pattern making class on how to make half slips that includes complete illustrated instructions for making several lengths as well as a variety of hem finishes. The class comes in Misses Size – S, M, L, XL and Full Figure/Plus Size – 1X-8X.

For additional information on patterns and pattern making, visit SewWithSarah.com – your sewing, craft, pattern and pattern making headquarters!

Be Creative With Children’s Clothing

October 4, 2016 by Sarah J. Doyle Leave a Comment

Whether you’re making new clothing items, altering outgrown clothing or just want to add something “extra” to a childs’ garment, we have a few suggestions for you.

When my daughter was in elementary school I made “patchwork” pants for her as well as a “patchwork” jacket. Her friends LOVED her special clothing, and immediately I started getting calls from the mothers asking if I could make their daughters “patchwork” clothes like my daughter had. These are easy to make and can use up some of your scraps!

Cut your skirt, slacks or jacket pattern out of muslin and sew in any darts. Next, arrange your fabric scraps to cover the muslin pieces (begin at the top and pin the scraps as you go, overlapping them as you work your way to the bottom). When the muslin pieces are covered with fabric scraps, take it to the sewing machine and do a satin stitch all around each piece, securing it to the muslin. After securing all the fabric pieces on the muslin pieces, sew the slacks, skirt or jacket pieces together. Add a zipper, waistband and hook/eye closure as needed for that particular garment. Children love these “patchwork” garments!

** A “different” way of lengthening a child’s skirt or dress is to cut OFF the hem, then insert a wide band of lace or trim and sew the hem back on under the trim. You might want to add a piece of the same lace or trim on a pocket, or make a design out of the trim to place somewhere else on the skirt or dress to make it look like it “belongs” there rather than being an addition.

** When making elastic waist skirts, shorts or slacks for children, if you sew a small square of contrasting colored fabric at the center back casing (where tags would be if the garment was purchased), it will be easy for the child to tell the front from the back when dressing.

**Don’t give away your old clothes when you clean out your closet. Your “last year’s” styles and designs are not worn out – maybe just outdated. Use these clothes to make a wardrobe for your child. See the book “Make a Child’s Wardrobe From Your Old Clothing” for a multitude of ideas.

**If you’ve made a fancy dress for that “special occasion” picture of your child, try making a padded fabric picture frame from the same fabric. This special photo makes a great gift for grandparents.

** To help prevent loss of buttons on purchased clothing for children, reinforce the buttons with dental floss BEFORE the children wear the garment. The buttons will NOT disappear from the garment.

** And speaking of buttons, there is nothing written in stone that says you HAVE to sew four hole buttons a certain way. Especially in children’s clothing, try sewing them on “decorator” fashion – see samples below:

The above tips are from the 500 Kwik & Easy Sewing Tips book. Check out the “sneak preview” of other tips in the book and what people are saying about it.