HEMMING STITCHES are used to secure a hem edge to a garment. There are a variety of hemming stitches you can use, however we’ll highlight only a few in this post.
UNEVEN SLIPSTITCH is a durable and almost invisible stitch suitable for a folded hem edge. Stitches are worked from right to left. Fasten the thread, bringing the needle and thread out through the fold of the hem. Opposite, in the garment, take a small stitch, catching only a few yarns. Opposite that stitch, in the hem edge, insert the needle and slip through the fold for about ¼”. Continue alternating the stitches in this fashion.
BLIND CATCHSTITCH is used for flat hemming, and is done between the hem and the garment. Work from left to the right with the needle pointing left. Fold back the hem edge; fasten the thread inside it. Take a very small stitch about ¼” to the right in the garment; take the next stitch ¼” to the right in the hem edge. Continue to alternate the stitches from the garment to the hem, spacing them ¼” apart.
BLIND HEM STITCH. These stitches are taken inside, between the hem and the garment. Work from right to the left with the needle pointing left. Fold back the hem edge; fasten the thread inside it. Take a very small stitch approximately ¼” to the left in the garment; take the next stitch ¼” to the left in the hem. Continue to alternate stitches from the garment to the hem, spacing them approximately ¼” apart.
These “how to” tutorials are an excerpt from our book “Basic Clothing Construction”. This book is a handy addition to have in your sewing room, so you can refer to the various sewing tips and tutorials at any time.