Zippers can be tricky, but the lapped zipper for shorts or slacks fronts are usually “super” tricky. Once you get the basics down, and do this type of zipper a few times, it will get easier each time.
With right sides together (A) measure the length of the zipper, then start stitching from the area where the zipper will end, and sew down to the inseam
Working on the inside of the pant (B), press open the seam allowance for the zipper.
To install the zipper, place the pant right side up (C). Working on the left seam allowance, slide out and pin this seam allowance ¼” beyond the pressed seam line.
With the zipper closed, place it right side up. Position one edge of the zipper teeth next to the folded extended seam allowance of the zipper. Pin in place. Using a zipper foot and starting from the bottom of the zipper, stitch close to the folded edge of the seam allowance the entire length of the zipper (as shown by the direction of the arrow).
With the right of the garment facing up, pin the other seam allowance over the closed zipper (D), so that it conceals the zipper and the other stitching.
Turn the pant wrong side up (E) and stitch the zipper tape to the seam allowance for the zipper. To complete the installation, turn the pant right side up (F), and machine stitch a row of stitching parallel to the fly fold and ¾” away from the fold, through all layers of the fabric, curving at the bottom to meet the bottom of the zipper.
With the right of the garment facing up, pin the other seam allowance over the closed zipper (D), so that it conceals the zipper and the other stitching.
Turn the pant wrong side up (E) and stitch the zipper tape to the seam allowance for the zipper. To complete the installation, turn the pant right side up (F), and machine stitch a row of stitching parallel to the fly fold and ¾” away from the fold, through all layers of the fabric, curving at the bottom to meet the bottom of the zipper.
With the right of the garment facing up, pin the other seam allowance over the closed zipper (D), so that it conceals the zipper and the other stitching.
Turn the pant wrong side up (E) and stitch the zipper tape to the seam allowance for the zipper. To complete the installation, turn the pant right side up (F), and machine stitch a row of stitching parallel to the fly fold and ¾” away from the fold, through all layers of the fabric, curving at the bottom to meet the bottom of the zipper
With the right of the garment facing up, pin the other seam allowance over the closed zipper (D), so that it conceals the zipper and the other stitching.
Turn the pant wrong side up (E) and stitch the zipper tape to the seam allowance for the zipper. To complete the installation, turn the pant right side up (F), and machine stitch a row of stitching parallel to the fly fold and 3/4″ away fromt he fold, through all layers of the fabric, curving at the bottom to meet the bottom of the zipper.
These “how to” tutorials are an excerpt from our book “Basic Clothing Construction”. This book is a handy addition to have in your sewing room, so you can refer to the various sewing tips and tutorials at any time
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