As the economy continues to crumble, we have to be creative in thinking of ways to save money.  One of the best ways I’ve found to save money for myself as well as customers I sew for is to change the style of the patterns already in use rather than buy new patterns just to get a different neck style, or different types of sleeves, etc.

By using ONE basic pattern that you know fits well, you can make more clothes than would ever fit in your closet by just learning how to change the neckline into different styles, or how to change the basic sleeve into 10 different styles, or how to make collars to add to the basic pattern.

If you’ve just found out you’re pregnant, don’t go out and try to find nice looking maternity patterns – once again, simply use the patterns you have in your sewing room and convert them into maternity styles. 

By doing pattern makeovers on the patterns you already own, you will be able to save probably one hundred or more dollars over the course of a year.  After all, the more you save by not buying patterns, the more money you’ll have to buy fabric!

However, we rarely mention increasing your services by doing specialty sewing for plus size and full figure women.  At the BigBeautifulPeople website you will find pattern making classes that will teach you how to take the individual woman’s measurements and make patterns specifically for her.  In addition we do have a few ready made patterns that you can use for the 1-5x sizes.

While you’re expanding your business to take in the plus size and full figure women, why not include some sewing for men?  Again at BigBeautifulPeople we have a pattern making class on how to make patterns for the big, tall and large men.

We’ve found that if you want to make patterns for your customers, we suggest that you start with the basics — skirts and slacks.  These are usually the harder garments for full figure women to get to fit, but are the easier ones for you as a pattern maker to make.

Use the pattern making classes to make a few patterns for yourself, just to get comfortable doing the pattern making, then go ahead and talk to your customers about doing patterns for them.

It appears that there are many beautiful dresses out there as well as little suits for the boys, but almost nothing for the plus size and overweight children.  There is still time to get a pattern that’s “close” to the overweight childs’ measurements and do the proper alterations on it, as written in our Altering Patterns for Plus Size Boys and Girls class  so they also can have the beautiful garments for the Christmas Season.

And for those of you who want to expand on your sewing abilities and actually be able to MAKE the patterns according to the measurements of your plus size and overweight children and grandchildren so that all their garments will fit properly, check out the variety of pattern making classes we have for children at PatternsThatFitYou. 

As a grandmother myself with an overweight grandchild, the pattern making and pattern altering classes were the ONLY way we got clothes to fit that child.

It is very important to take the measurements accurately because those measurements will be used as the basis for additional styles and variations.  You should be measured standing in a natural position and the crotch taken while sitting in a straight hard-back chair (not in a cushion type chair). 

1. WAIST: Tie a piece of elastic around the narrowest part of your torso and measure the waist at that spot.

2.  HIP:  The hipline is normally 8″ below the waist.  Measure loosely around the thickest part and add 3/8″ to the measurement.

3.  COULOTTE LENGTH:  Measure from the waist to the desired length of the split skirt / coulotte length.

4.  CROTCH:  Measure the crotch sitting down.  Take the measurement on the side from the waist to the chair, and add 1 1/4″.

5.  SHORTS LENGTH:  Place your arm along the side of your leg.  Measure from the waist to the point on your leg that the middle finger touches.  This is your basic shorts length, however the length will vary, according to the style you’re making. 

Each child will have different measurements, depending on their age and how overweight they are.  I recommend that you get some manilla envelopes to store each child’s pattern after you’re finished with it, including their name, actual customer’s name and their phone number — the customer WILL be back for you to make more of them!!

How to draw the FRONT shorts pattern

STEP BY STEP INSTRUCTIONS are set up to be followed in a manner similar to the “dot to dot” pictures – connect all the dots as instructed, and you’ll have the completed shorts pattern.

Sample/practice measurements for this pattern are:  Shorts length 20″ – Hip 42″ and crotch 10″

1. Draw a vertical line to equal the desired length of the shorts plus 3″ for the elastic casing, our example being 23″.  Measuring from the top, make a mark along the vertical line to equal the crotch measurement +3″ (3″ is for the elastic casing), our example being 13″.  Draw a horizontal line at the top of the vertical line to equal H/4 = 10 1/2″.  Draw a second horizontal line at the lower crotch measurement point to equal H/4 = 10 1/2″.  Complete the “box” as shown.

2.  Beginning at the lower right hand corner of the box, measure out 2″, as shown.  From the same lower corner, measure up 4″.  Draw a diagonal line to connect the two marks just made.  Divide the diagonal line in half and measure in 3/4″, and draw in the curving front crotch line, as shown.

3.  To complete the front shorts pattern, draw a horizontal line from the bottom of the length line to equal H/4 + 2″ (12 1/2″).  Next connect the end of the line just drawn to the outside edge of the crotch line previously drawn, which will complete the front shorts leg pattern.

How to draw the BACK shorts pattern

1.  Draw around the front shorts pattern, as shown with dashed lines.

2.  Beginning at the outside edge of the waistline, measure in 3/4″ and up 1/2″.  Draw a straight line connecting the in 3/4″ and up 1/2″ marks to the crotch line curve that’s on the front pattern.

3.  At the outside edge of the crotch curve, measure out 1 1/4″ and down 1/4″.  This mark becomes the crotch extension for the back.  Draw in the curving line to connect the new crotch extension mark up to the crotch curve along the front pattern.

The last step is to draw in the new “inside” leg line – drawing from the new crotch extension point to the bottom of the leg.

Adding hem and seam allowance

As with all pattern making, there have not been any seam allowances added until the pattern is finished.  Draw in the 5/8″ seam allowances as shown with dashed lines, and make a 2″ hem at the bottom of the shorts.  NOTE:  3″ has already been added to the pattern during the drawing process to allow for the elastic casing, so there is no need for any other seam allowance along the waistline.

How to estimate fabric requirements

44″ wide material requires 2 shorts lengths plus 10″ (3″ elastic casing on each and 2″ hem on each) – or better yet, measure the finished pattern AFTER drawing in the hem, etc and use that as your actual length.

54″ wide material requires 1 desired shorts length plus 5″ (3″ elastic casing and 2″ hem) – or better yet, measure the finished pattern AFTER drawing in the hem and use that as your actual length.

NOTE:  These measurements will vary according to what your own personal hip measurement is or the hip measurement of the person you’re sewing for.  For larger sizes, after completing the shorts pattern, measure the width of the widest part of the shorts back (probably the crotch / crotch extension line), plus seam allowances to determine if that plus the front pattern piece will fit on the folded 54″ wide material, or if you will need 2 lengths of the fabric

Laying the pattern on the fabric

Draw in a “straight grain” line in the center of the shorts that is parallel to the side.  Lay the pattern on the fabric as indicated.  If the pattern is small enough and the fabric wide enough, both pieces can be placed side by side on the folded fabric.

Sewing the seams of the shorts

Pin and sew the front crotch seam (A), and then the back crotch seam.  Next place the front and back pant sections right sides together.  Pin and sew the outside leg seams, sewing from the top to the hem edge (.

Stitch the inside leg seams (C) sewing from the crotch to the lower hem edge on each leg.  don’t sew up one side and down the other as this may cause the shorts to hang incorrectly.

Inserting the elastic into the casing

To make the elastic casing, finish the upper edge of the shorts by zig zagging or using a serger stitch.  Fold under 1/4″ and press (A).  Fold the casing 1″ as shown.  Pin in place, then stitch, leaving about 2″ not sewn at one side seam (.  This is where you will insert the elastic.

Cut the elastic the desired length.  Attach a safety pin at one end of the elastic (C).  Work the pin / elastic through the casing beginning at the unsewn area.  Work the elastic all the way through the casing, making sure to keep the other end outside the casing (it may be a good idea to pin the loose end to the fabric so it won’t accidentally slip through the casing).  After threading the elastic through the casing, overlap the elastic ends (D) and machine stitch the ends securely.  Evenly space the elastic, then finally, stitch the previous “unsewn” area.

Hemming the shorts

The final step is to sew the hems in the legs.  Fold under 1/2″ and press.  Fold under another 1/2″ and pin in place, then sew the hems.

For a variety of shorts / slacks / coulottes patterns that you could also offer to your customers, see the entire shorts/slacks pattern making class at Patterns That Fit You.

STEP 1:  For the bell sleeve, you will “cut” and “separate” the basic sleeve from the bottom.  On the basic pattern, draw in the center vertical line, then measure 2″ to the left and right of the center line, and draw two additional vertical lines.  Beginning at the bottom, cut each of the vertical lines almost to the top, keeping the main piece attached at the top.

STEP 2:  At the bottom of the sleeve, separate the “cut” sections so there are openings of 1 5/8″ between each section, as shown.  Lay the basic “cut” sleeve pattern onto pattern paper and pin the sections in place on the pattern paper.

STEP 3:  At the bottom of the center “cut” line, measure DOWN 3/4″ and make a mark.  Draw in the new lower sleeve line with a smooth curving line as shown in the above drawing.

Trace around the “new” sleeve pattern on the pattern paper so you’ll have a permanent pattern.  We also suggest that you cut out the picture that’s associated with the sleeve style and tape it to the new sleeve pattern, and perhaps even label it “Bell Sleeve”, so you can keep it to mix and match with other necklines and collars for garment variations.  This new sleeve pattern / style can be sewn according to the pattern instructions. 

You can see how easy it is to change the basic sleeve into a completely different style.  If you would like to learn how to make TEN different sleeve styles from that ONE basic pattern, check out the sleeve changing class at Patterns That Fit You.com.

By offering this service to your customers, you will be able to increase your business and profits.  I would suggest that you make sample sleeves showing the new ones that you can make for the customer to see and choose from.  Since you’ll be using the sleeve from the customers’ pattern package to make any new sleeves for that particular customer, you can be assured that they will fit her.