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October 2015
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8 Online Places To Sell Your Products

Posted By on August 17, 2015

Each person has different thoughts and ideas about what we want to sell online.  I am a pattern maker – I simply love to come up with new ideas, then follow through with making a sewing pattern or craft pattern for the item.  Others would prefer to actually MAKE the items, then sell the products.  Whether it be sewing, crafting, knitting, crochet or whatever skills they have, it’s the process of making these special items that excites them.

Regardless of whether you make sewing and craft patterns or actually make the products, there is a need to know WHERE we can go online to sell our stuff.  There are many places online where you can sell your wares, and I want to cover a few of them here.  Some you are probably familiar with, but others may be new to you.  I’d suggest you check them out to see if they would be a good match for your products.  In addition to being a place to sell your items, most of the websites also have forums, “community”, and/or blogs that you can participate in.




Craftsy is probably one of the most popular sites to take classes as well as sell your patterns.  They have a wide variety of categories that could be a great match for your patterns.  In addition to selling your patterns, if you can make “kits” to go with your pattern – you package up the pattern and materials to make the pattern – there is a big category for these items.  One of the best things is that Craftsy has no listing fees, no fees for selling your items, AND you get 100% of the profit from your sales.  You set up your own “store” and add as many patterns as you choose.  You will need a paypal  account, as the purchase amount goes directly there as soon as a sale is made.  Craftsy is a well-known name in the industry because of its diverse product offerings in multiple hobbies.






You Can Make This is a place where you can share your expertise and make money doing it.  This site is for patterns of all types – jewelry, sewing patterns, stitchery, crochet, craft and hobbies.  There is a 4 step process to getting your patterns online at this site.  You will need to register with them as a potential seller, provide a little information about yourself, then fill out and fax back to them the vendor agreement and W9 form.  They will look over the information and get back to you within 5 days.  After hearing back from them you will be able to submit your product idea to them as well as other information they require.  They will then review your idea, and if approved, you will go through the final steps to get your pattern online.  I have not submitted any products to them, but it appears that you may have to get each product idea approved in advance before adding it to the site.  You Can Make This collects payments of all items sold, and you get paid 50% of the sales price and are paid once a month.






DIY-Crush  is a website where you can sell just about any type of pattern you make – from embroidery to cross stitch to craft and sewing patterns and everything in between.  You are fully in charge of listing the descriptions, pictures and uploading your patterns.  There are no listing fees, however DIY Crush does take out 45% of the sales price of each item.  They have an instant payment feature that lets you receive your funds immediately to your Pay Pal account when a pattern is sold – you don’t have to wait until the end of the month.







ETSY is probably the best known place to buy and sell handmade PRODUCTS.  Their rule is that it has to be either handmade or vintage (20 years old or older).  Etsy is a vibrant community of buyers and creative businesses.  There are no membership fees with Etsy.  They do charge $0.20 to list an item for 4 months, or until it sells.  If it doesn’t sell within that time frame, you have the option of re-listing the product for another $0.20 or just keep it out of your store.  Once you sell an item, Etsy collects a 3.5% fee on the sale price.  When someone buys your item, they pay you through Etsy (the money goes straight to you), and you then ship the product to the customer.







ArtFire has been around since 2008 and has a ton of categories for both hand made products, such as clothing, jewelry, art, beading, and woodcraft items to sewing and craft patterns of all types. There are no listing fees, however there is a monthly fee for your store.  A “basic” store costs $12.95 per month and you get unlimited listings in the store.  They do have several other ranges in price for a store, graduating up to $20 per month for a “Pro Seller” account.  The Pro Seller account has extra features, but for someone getting started, the “basic” store would suffice.  In addition to having a blog and forum, ArtFire also has “Guilds” for sellers.  These Guilds vary in types, ranging from people in certain geographic areas, people who have similar interests, people who sell certain types of goods, and so on.  To join one of these Guilds would be a great way to meet other people, learn from other sellers and let them learn from your knowledge.





ShopHandmade is strictly for handmade items – those items you make yourself, not mass produced somewhere for resale.  You may sell craft supplies (both new or gently used) as long as they are in good condition.  I did a search for “sewing patterns” and came up with a couple, and did see some toddler shoes, which also was a pdf pattern, however because of their rules and because of the type of people shopping there, I would not put my patterns on the site.  There is no fee of any type to set up your store at ShopHandmade and you get 100% of the profit when you make a sale.  You simply set up your store as you choose, using your product descriptions and prices, and (because you had your pay pal address listed with the site when you registered to sell), every product sale goes directly and immediately into your pay pal account.






Ebay is familiar to everyone, so opening your own store on ebay may be something you’ve been thinking about.  In order to be eligible to open an eBay store you must have a PayPal account that has been verified.  You must also have an eBay seller account.  Even if your plans aren’t focused on the main eBay website, you’ll still need an eBay seller account to sell using an eBay store.  If you haven’t already, join eBay, then ensure that a current name, address and phone number are on file at eBay and place a payment method (bank account or credit card) on file from which your eBay fees will be taken.  Basic stores cost $15.95 per month and include your own storefront, the ability to add your own customized pages to the store, and discounted $0.20 per listing insertion fees for fixed-price (non-auction) items in your store.  There is also the option of having a “premium” store, which costs $49.95 per month, but does have the benefit of lower listing insertion fees of $0.05 per listing.  You can sell any type of handmade products, patterns, supplies or whatever it is that you want to sell.






glcMall is a site for selling all of your handmade products.  Their mission is for the home based craft business to be able to make a living selling their crafts online by connecting with customers worldwide. GLC Mall has no listing fees and has 4 store plans, depending on the amount of items you will be placing in your store.  The “Basic” store is completely FREE of any charges – the only drawback is that you can only list up to 12 items.   The “Basic Plus” store lets you list up to 100 items for a flat rate of $3.50 per month.  The “Semi-Pro” store lets you list up to 250 items for a flat rate of $6.95 per month, and the “Pro” store lets you list an unlimited number of items in your store for a flat rate of $12.00 per month.  Any of the flat rate fees actually sound pretty good; however I can’t imagine too many people having even 100 items to start off with, so the Basic Plus store for $3.50 per month is quite a bargain!  Once again you get 100% of the sales profit, going immediately into your pay pal account.

There are probably other places online that you can sell your products, but the above listing will get you started.  Depending on WHAT you are selling will determine the choice of venue that would appeal to you.  For example, ShopHandmade is strictly limited to handmade items, so those of us who make patterns of all types to sell would not look there to open a store. I DID see a few pdf patterns there, but I’m thinking most customers at that site are looking for products already made.  Go over the list and check out each website thoroughly before making the final decision of where you want to list your products.  Good luck and happy selling!!!


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Do You Keep An “Event” Calendar?

Posted By on August 12, 2015

An “event” calendar could also be called a “planning” calendar.  Do you keep track of those upcoming craft fairs and bazaars that you want to attend?  You need to know when they are scheduled, in addition to knowing when to submit your application to participate in the event.

After confirming your space in the craft show, you’ll need to be setting some dates and times when you need to be finished with certain products that you’ll want to take to the craft show.  In order to keep yourself from frustrations by waiting until the show is a week away before trying to finish your products, write dates on your calendar of when to be finished with what products.  By the time the show or craft fair is a week away you’ll be finished – no last minute frenzy – and ready to pack up and head out to the show.

If you have a brick and mortar store or do online selling, you also need to schedule your marketing activities.  For example:

** Mark each month for something specific for your marketing tactic — is there a Holiday during the month that you can offer a bonus or discount to buyers?  Is there some local affair that you could tie into your marketing flyers or ads?

** After marking each month for specifics, if you find some gaps, plan some something special like a workshop, a bonus class or a freebie of some sort to keep customers coming back.

** If you’re going to be going to an out-of-town workshop, taking a short vacation, etc be sure to have planned ahead of time who will be checking your mail and emails, who will be doing any shipping for you or running the store.  Last minute jogging of personnel could mean no vacation or having to cancel the workshop you’d been looking forward to attending.

All of the above sounds like a no-brainer, but we’ve seen and heard horror stories about people NOT planning ahead or being organized enough in their business that problems seem to erupt way too often.  You can keep those scheduling problems at a minimum of you keep a detailed “event” or “planning” calendar, so every day you know where you are and what’s coming up.

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How To Improvise And Improve

Posted By on August 10, 2015

WOW!  What a strange title for a post!  However, I believe all of us in the sewing / crafting fields have done that very thing — just didn’t call it by those words.  Sometimes we “make do” by putting things together that weren’t called for on the pattern because we forgot to get all the supplies necessary for the patterns when we were at the fabric store.  Other times we didn’t really like one facet of the pattern, so “improvised” by using something else that we had available, therefore “improving” on the original pattern.

I’ve been making some designer apron patterns, and therefore have to make a sample just to be sure it is what I want it to be.  I finished the pattern, went to the fabric store for other items and bought NOTHING to make my sample aprons out of.  (How smart was that????)   Well, I decided to do a little of the “practice what you preach” stuff, and started going through my fabric stash for a couple fabric pieces I could use.  You’d think I could use any old thing, because after all, this is just a “sample” or “trial version”, but no, I wanted the perfect pieces because I just knew they SHOULD work out just fine!  (I always cross my fingers when doing something like that!)

I couldn’t believe it — I found two PERFECT pieces of fabric, AND bias binding trim that I’d purchased a couple years ago for something else that never got made.  I even found tiny rick rack that could be used for decorative stitching on one of the aprons.  I’d thought about buying some ribbon for little bows on the pockets, but decided to use the same tiny rick rack for bows that I was using for the decorative trim along the bottom.

Sometimes by doing the “improvising”, the whole garment or craft item looks like a new creation — and a much better version than the first.

The whole point of this post is to get you to put your thinking cap on, or as my daughter would say “rub two brain cells together” and come up with a variety of items from a single pattern, using different materials, different trims or cutting the original pattern just a little bit different to give it a whole new look.  You might surprise yourself at what all you can create, all because you tried to improve on the original pattern and improvise a little by trying new fabrics, new methods, or new trims.  GO FOR IT!

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Keep Your Sewing Equipment in Tip Top Shape

Posted By on August 5, 2015

One of the most irritating things that can happen to those of us in the sewing, alteration, crafting, doll making and other “sewing” businesses is for a machine to break down in the middle of a rush project — or any other day of the week!  We simply do NOT have the time to spare to lug the machine to a repair shop, only to be told it will be a week or two before they can “get to it” to check it out and make necessary repairs.  Not only do we have to wait for the machine to be repaired, in most cases the repair COULD have been done easily and simply by YOU or me at our own home or shop, which would have resulted in almost no down time.

I learned a long time ago that unless you have a totally honest repair shop, and an efficient repair shop, you can look for long delays in getting the machine back, and THEN within a few days or weeks the same (or different) problem pops back up.  Interesting how “new” problems seem to happen so quickly after a visit to the repair shop.

For those of you who are like me and NEVER want to see my sewing machine leave my sewing room again, I would highly recommend a couple of repair books that are written in simple language, with diagrams and illustrations, that will allow you to repair your own machine, and get right back to work on those projects.

Sewing Machine Repair for the Home Sewer is probably the most helpful repair book you can find -  it tackles the timing problems (have you hit a pin or heavy thick jeans seam and thrown it out of time?), shows how to take a tension apart and put it back together and gives great information on how to adjust the tensions (upper and lower).  And, oh those pesky problems with the needle and bobbin - thread breaking, knotting in the bobbin area, etc.  This book covers all of these problems.

And, for those Spanish speaking sewers, there is also the Sewing Machine Repair for the Home Sewer written in Spanish  (Reparación de Maquinas de Coser en el Hogar  that is also available.

Serger Repair for the Home Sewer is written in the same manner that the sewing machine repair book is, except that it tackles the problems and issues that you’d have with your 3-thread, 4-thread and 5-thread sergers.

And for those of you who are lucky enough to have a treadle sewing machine, don’t forget to keep them in tip top shape as well.


By doing “regular” preventative maintenance on our precious sewing equipment will mean fewer breakdowns and fewer headaches while we’re doing what we love to do — sewing!

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Make Perfect Fitting Shorts / Slacks For Your Hard To Fit Customers

Posted By on August 3, 2015

With school starting soon, all of us in the sewing business will be bombarded with requests to try to make some pants and shorts for those customers who have overweight and plus size children because there just won’t be anything in ready-to-wear that will fit them.  This year why not try out the following shorts tutorial, learn how to make shorts/slacks according to those overweight childrens’ personal measurements, then post a flyer in all the fabric stores in your area announcing your new service —- you will be sewing day and night to keep up with the requests, and after making the first few patterns, you’ll be able to make them with your eyes shut!!


It is very important to take the measurements accurately because those measurements will be used as the basis for additional styles and variations.  You should be measured standing in a natural position and the crotch taken while sitting in a straight hard-back chair (not in a cushion type chair).








1. WAIST: Tie a piece of elastic around the narrowest part of your torso and measure the waist at that spot.


2.  HIP:  The hipline is normally 8″ below the waist.  Measure loosely around the thickest part and add 3/8″ to the measurement.


3.  COULOTTE LENGTH:  Measure from the waist to the desired length of the split skirt / coulotte length.


4.  CROTCH:  Measure the crotch sitting down.  Take the measurement on the side from the waist to the chair, and add 1 1/4″.


5.  SHORTS LENGTH:  Place your arm along the side of your leg.  Measure from the waist to the point on your leg that the middle finger touches.  This is your basic shorts length, however the length will vary, according to the style you’re making.

Each child will have different measurements, depending on their age and how overweight they are.  I recommend that you get some manilla envelopes to store each child’s pattern after you’re finished with it, including their name, actual customer’s name and their phone number — the customer WILL be back for you to make more of them!!


How to draw the FRONT shorts pattern


STEP BY STEP INSTRUCTIONS are set up to be followed in a manner similar to the “dot to dot” pictures – connect all the dots as instructed, and you’ll have the completed shorts pattern.


Sample/practice measurements for this pattern are:  Shorts length 20″ – Hip 42″ and crotch 10″


1. Draw a vertical line to equal the desired length of the shorts plus 3″ for the elastic casing, our example being 23″.  Measuring from the top, make a mark along the vertical line to equal the crotch measurement +3″ (3″ is for the elastic casing), our example being 13″.  Draw a horizontal line at the top of the vertical line to equal H/4 = 10 1/2″.  Draw a second horizontal line at the lower crotch measurement point to equal H/4 = 10 1/2″.  Complete the “box” as shown.

2.  Beginning at the lower right hand corner of the box, measure out 2″, as shown.  From the same lower corner, measure up 4″.  Draw a diagonal line to connect the two marks just made.  Divide the diagonal line in half and measure in 3/4″, and draw in the curving front crotch line, as shown.

3.  To complete the front shorts pattern, draw a horizontal line from the bottom of the length line to equal H/4 + 2″ (12 1/2″).  Next connect the end of the line just drawn to the outside edge of the crotch line previously drawn, which will complete the front shorts leg pattern.


How to draw the BACK shorts pattern










1.  Draw around the front shorts pattern, as shown with dashed lines.

2.  Beginning at the outside edge of the waistline, measure in 3/4″ and up 1/2″.  Draw a straight line connecting the in 3/4″ and up 1/2″ marks to the crotch line curve that’s on the front pattern.

3.  At the outside edge of the crotch curve, measure out 1 1/4″ and down 1/4″.  This mark becomes the crotch extension for the back.  Draw in the curving line to connect the new crotch extension mark up to the crotch curve along the front pattern.

The last step is to draw in the new “inside” leg line – drawing from the new crotch extension point to the bottom of the leg.

Adding hem and seam allowance









As with all pattern making, there have not been any seam allowances added until the pattern is finished.  Draw in the 5/8″ seam allowances as shown with dashed lines, and make a 2″ hem at the bottom of the shorts.  NOTE:  3″ has already been added to the pattern during the drawing process to allow for the elastic casing, so there is no need for any other seam allowance along the waistline.

How to estimate fabric requirements

44″ wide material requires 2 shorts lengths plus 10″ (3″ elastic casing on each and 2″ hem on each) – or better yet, measure the finished pattern AFTER drawing in the hem, etc and use that as your actual length.

54″ wide material requires 1 desired shorts length plus 5″ (3″ elastic casing and 2″ hem) – or better yet, measure the finished pattern AFTER drawing in the hem and use that as your actual length.

NOTE:  These measurements will vary according to what your own personal hip measurement is or the hip measurement of the person you’re sewing for.  For larger sizes, after completing the shorts pattern, measure the width of the widest part of the shorts back (probably the crotch / crotch extension line), plus seam allowances to determine if that plus the front pattern piece will fit on the folded 54″ wide material, or if you will need 2 lengths of the fabric

Laying the pattern on the fabric







Draw in a “straight grain” line in the center of the shorts that is parallel to the side.  Lay the pattern on the fabric as indicated.  If the pattern is small enough and the fabric wide enough, both pieces can be placed side by side on the folded fabric.

Sewing the seams of the shorts








Pin and sew the front crotch seam (A), and then the back crotch seam.  Next place the front and back pant sections right sides together.  Pin and sew the outside leg seams, sewing from the top to the hem edge (B).









Stitch the inside leg seams (C) sewing from the crotch to the lower hem edge on each leg.  don’t sew up one side and down the other as this may cause the shorts to hang incorrectly.


Inserting the elastic into the casing









To make the elastic casing, finish the upper edge of the shorts by zig zagging or using a serger stitch.  Fold under 1/4″ and press (A).  Fold the casing 1″ as shown.  Pin in place, then stitch, leaving about 2″ not sewn at one side seam (B).  This is where you will insert the elastic.











Cut the elastic the desired length.  Attach a safety pin at one end of the elastic (C).  Work the pin / elastic through the casing beginning at the unsewn area.  Work the elastic all the way through the casing, making sure to keep the other end outside the casing (it may be a good idea to pin the loose end to the fabric so it won’t accidentally slip through the casing).  After threading the elastic through the casing, overlap the elastic ends (D) and machine stitch the ends securely.  Evenly space the elastic, then finally, stitch the previous “unsewn” area.


Hemming the shorts






The final step is to sew the hems in the legs.  Fold under 1/2″ and press.  Fold under another 1/2″ and pin in place, then sew the hems.

For a variety of shorts / slacks / coulottes patterns that you could also offer to your customers, see the entire shorts/slacks pattern making class at  The classes here are for men, women and children.

In addition to the pattern making classes, we also have a variety of  patterns for Plus Size Children under the category of Sewing Patterns.  Start early and make perfect fitting garments for the plus size and overweight children you know or may sew for.

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Simple Laundry Secrets To Make Your Clothes Last Longer

Posted By on July 29, 2015

One of the best ways to make the most out of your hard-earned money is to take good care of things you already own.  The following list of laundry “secrets” of course are for all of us, but I’m thinking that for those of you that do any type of sewing or clothing alteration work, could make your own little “list” of these laundry tips, add your business information to the list and hand it out to all of your customers.  In fact, it wouldn’t hurt to give each customer a few extra to hand out to their friends and co-workers.  The list of laundry tips will be welcome information to all who get it, AND at the same time is getting word out about YOUR business.

1.  Treat stains as soon as possible

The secret to successfully getting rid of stains is to treat them as soon as you can. Vinegar, dishwashing liquid and shampoo are great stain removers! You can also carry a stain removal pen in your pocket or purse for when you’re on the go. Once the stain has been treated, simply wash the article of clothing as you normally would.

2. Keep them closed

Buckles and metal zippers easily snag on other clothing items. Make sure no zippers on jackets and pants are left unzipped during washing and drying.

3. Turn your clothes inside out

When clothing is turned inside out, buttons and zippers of shirts and pants are on the inner side, preventing them from damaging other items of clothing. Pants, especially jeans, are also often turned inside out during washing and drying so that they retain their dark color.

4. Don’t take color separation lightly

If you’ve got loads of laundry to deal with, don’t be tempted to just stuff everything in the machine all at once. Reds and blues tend to fade easily, and the last thing you want is for your favorite white shirt to turn light pink. At the very least, do a separate load of laundry for dark-colored clothes and a separate one for light-colored clothes.

5. Keep delicates in a bag

Underwear is pretty expensive—so you need to make the most out of it! Keep your delicates in a mesh bag or even an old pillowcase closed with two or three safety pins. This is also a great way to keep socks together during the entire washing and drying process.

6. Wash your clothes in cold water

Cold water is much gentler on clothing compared to hot water, since hot water tends to weaken clothing fibers such as elastic. Hot water can also cause shrinking for some fabrics, and can turn temporary stains into permanent ones. Apart from cleaning your clothes, cold water also uses less energy and is a whole lot cheaper!

Doing the laundry may take a little longer now—but the extra effort will definitely go a long way. Follow the tips above and you’ll keep your clothes in great condition for years to come!

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Which Do You Prefer………..

Posted By on July 27, 2015

There are “downloadable” books and there are “printed” books.  You know the difference…… downloadable books/classes/courses are the ones you get immediately upon your payment of the item and have instant access to it.  “Printed”, of course, are those books, patterns and so forth that are already printed and are mailed to you.  Which do YOU prefer?

Some websites, such as SewWithSarah have probably 90-100% of their products as downloadable.  SewWithSarah has only two categories that are printed and mailed (the Plus Size Children sewing patterns and the Sewing Machine Repair For The Home Sewer in Spanish), and all other books and classes are downloadable.  Some websites, such as SewMachineRepair have only “Print” copies of books, and other sites give you a choice of which version you want.  An example of a website offering their book as a download OR print version is 101 Ways To Tie A Scarf –  you can read all about the book, then choose which type of book you prefer.  Another example would be if you’re thinking about starting a clothing alteration business, or wanting additional information on the subject, you can go to the website, AlterationBiz and once again, read the information and choose whether you want to download it immediately, or go with the print version.

We all have reasons for the method we choose.  This is the age of “I need it NOW”, so the vast majority of people select the “instant” download of everything.  I pretty much agree with that because when I’m in the middle of doing something and am looking for information on that particular subject, I want my information immediately, not a week from now.  On the other hand, those who buy the print copy of our Sewing Machine Repair For The Home Sewer, or Sewing Machine Repair As A Home Business, say that they want the printed book so they can lay it out beside their machines and follow along with the instructions.

Some items, such as craft patterns,  crochet or knitting patterns are probably ALL downloadable on every website that carries them.  These types of patterns are so easy to download, using just 2-3 pieces of paper, that it just makes sense to go with the instant download on them.

Which do YOU prefer??



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How Much Fabric Should I Buy???

Posted By on July 22, 2015

One question that has been emailed to us literally dozens of times  is “if my pattern calls for 45″ wide fabric and I find 36″ wide fabric that would be perfect, how much should I get”?

We have the answer to all of you who have written in —- download and print the “fabric conversion chart” from  This chart gives fabric widths from 35/36″ to 66″ widths, and tells you if you need x number of yards of 45″ wide material, follow the chart to see how much you’d need of that 36″ wide fabric, or 54″ wide fabric, etc.   I carry this chart in my purse and can’t tell you how many times it has come in handy!  I’ve coated mine with “clear adheer” plastic coating so it won’t get torn or worn, and it has lasted for years.

And while you’re at the site you might want to check out the informational report on “Sew What’s Your Problem” - which deals with a lot of the main sewing machine problems that affect us all.  If you’re like me, I like to keep myself out of the Doctor’s office and my sewing machine out of the repair shop!!

We have a lot of super informational articles in our “Sewing Tips And Tutorials” section, that may just help you with a variety of  sewing issues.  Check out our SewWithSarah website and see what all we have for you.

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Updated SewWithSarah

Posted By on July 20, 2015

We have done a little “adding” and “rearranging” of the top bar at SewWithSarah to make it a little more user friendly.  You will now see a category for “Pattern Making”, which is specifically for all of our pattern making and pattern changing classes.  You can see everything at a glance.

The second change is adding the drop down box and title “Sewing Patterns”,  which at this time includes our variety of craft patterns, as well as the following sewing pattern categories:

Plus Size Boys Patterns

Plus Size Girls Blouse Patterns

Plus Size Girls Nightwear Patterns

Plus Size Girls Shorts and Slacks Patterns

Plus Size Girls Skirts and Dress Patterns

NOTE:  Don’t forget all of the Plus Size children sewing patterns are now 60% off (reg. $14.95 – now $5.98), as we clear out the physical patterns to make room for downloadable plus size children patterns.  These are going fast, so if you or somebody you know sews for plus size, overweight or obese children, check out the patterns soon.

We will be adding some adult average size and adult plus size sewing patterns soon, so keep an eye out for them.



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Write an Informational Report For Your Customers

Posted By on July 15, 2015

Now why would you want to give your customers an informational handout when you can simply talk to them when they come in to your shop?

If you deal in wedding dresses, wouldn’t it be nice if you could give each customer a small booklet or leaflet explaining how to take care of the wedding dress, and how they can preserve it.  You can talk to the customer, but they’re probably so excited about the upcoming event that they won’t hear a word your’re saying, and if they DO hear it, they’ll forget what you said by the time they get home.  With the little leaflet you hand out to them, you’ll be helping them more than you can imagine.

If you work with silks or specialty fabrics, a “report” or sheet of paper telling how to wash the fabrics, how to dry them, how to remove stains, etc can really be a life saver for your customers.

It would only take a few minutes of your time to brainstorm and come up with some ideas that would be helpful for your customers, regardless of what field of sewing you’re in.  You can make one or two or even three different handout sheets to give to your customers, depending on what it is that you do for them.

Be sure to put your name, address, phone number and your website address either at the top or bottom of the sheet so they’ll know where they got it, and if they make copies to hand out to their friends, the friends will also know how to find you.

By the way, these informational sheets or reports can be added to your website as content for other readers who visit your site — you never know how much additional business you can get just because you’re making yourself an expert in your field, and the fact that you are willing to help your customers by giving out the helpful hints.

If you’re already doing this, we applaud you, and give you the “thumbs up” for excellent work.  If you’re not already doing these things, think about what YOU would like to receive if you were the customer.

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