Sewing machines are a little like cars, they last a long time but new models keep coming out with new features.  Heck, the new Bernina 8 Series machines even have alarm clocks if you need to be reminded that it’s time to do something else   They pretty much do everything but make coffee (at least I didn’t see a place for a filter).  My trusted Bernina 817 is almost 30 years old so it doesn’t have NEAR as many features as the new computerized models, but it sure was fancy when I got it new as a teenager.  It’s still a workhorse and I’d never give it up, but momma needs a new Bernina!  Since I’ll have to wait on that a little bit, I’m happy to enter the Spring 2010 Bernina Favorite Feature Contest for a chance to win a box full of goodies from Bernina, OESD, Benartex and Brewer!  All you have to do to enter is post a comment on the Bernina blog about your favorite sewing machine feature!

             To help maintain the shape of the facing, and not stretch it, it is good to staystitch a line ¼” inside the neck seamline of each facing section, as indicated in the left hand illustration show above.

            With right sides together and the markings matched, stitch the front facing sections to the back facing sections at the shoulders.  Press the seams open.  Trim the seam allowance to half the width if working with a bulky fabric; if working with fabric that will ravel it is best to leave the regular seam width, then finish the seam with a zig zag stitch.

With right sides together (A), match the notches, markings and seamlines and pin the facing to the neck opening.  If a zipper has already been inserted into the garment, open the zipper and wrap the ends of the facing to the inside around each zipper half.  Baste the facing to the garment along the neck seam line.

            Stitch the facing to the garment (B) along the neck seamline.  Secure the stitching at both ends with a short backstitch.  Check to be sure that the neck seamlines will line up with each other when the zipper is closed.  Remove the basting threads and press the seam flat.

With right sides together (A), match the notches, markings and seamlines and pin the facing to the neck opening.  If a zipper has already been inserted into the garment, open the zipper and wrap the ends of the facing to the inside around each zipper half.  Baste the facing to the garment along the neck seam line.

            Stitch the facing to the garment (B) along the neck seamline.  Secure the stitching at both ends with a short backstitch.  Check to be sure that the neck seamlines will line up with each other when the zipper is closed.  Remove the basting threads and press the seam flat.

If the neckline you’re working with is square, the facing is attached the same way as for the round neckline, but you would need to reinforce the corners by using small stitches for about an inch on both sides of the corners.  In order for the collar to lay flat when turning, it is necessary to clip into the corners as indicated above, but make sure you don’t clip too far and cut into the stitching line.

            After stitching the shoulder seams and pressing the seams flat you should finish the outer unnotched edge of the facing.  You can either turn under about ¼” seam (A) to finish, or if you’re working with a fabric that won’t ravel you can either simply pink the edges, or pink them and sew a seam close to the pinked edge to minimize stretching and raveling.

Attaching the shaped facings:

            With right sides together (A), match the notches, markings and seamlines and pin the facing to the neck opening.  If a zipper has already been inserted into the garment, open the zipper and wrap the ends of the facing to the inside around each zipper half.  Baste the facing to the garment along the neck seam line.

            Stitch the facing to the garment (B) along the neck seamline.  Secure the stitching at both ends with a short backstitch.  Check to be sure that the neck seamlines will line up with each other when the zipper is closed.  Remove the basting threads and press the seam flat.

             If the neckline you’re working with is square, the facing is attached the same way as for the round neckline, but you would need to reinforce the corners by using small stitches for about an inch on both sides of the corners.  In order for the collar to lay flat when turning, it is necessary to clip into the corners as indicated above, but make sure you don’t clip too far and cut into the stitching line.

          After stitching the facing, place the seam, wrong side up, over a tailor’s ham (D), and using the tip of the iron, press the seam open.  Press carefully and lightly to prevent the seam edges from making an imprint on the right side of the garment. 

          Next, still from the wrong side of the garment, with the facing extended away from you (E), press all the seam allowances toward the facing.  Press carefully so you don’t crease either the facing or the garment.

           Turn the facing to the inside of the garment, allowing the seamline to roll inside slightly.  Line up the facing and garment seamlines and center markings, then press along the neck edge (F).  Once the facings are lined up and pressed, they will need to be tacked in place at the seam lines.  You can either use several closely spaced whipstitches (left illustration (G)) or use a cross stitch tack (right illustration (G)), catching only the facing edge and the seam allowances of the garment.

            To secure the facing at the zipper it will be necessary to told the facing ends under and pin to the zipper tape. Make sure that the facing will not be caught in the zipper.  Open the zipper and slipstitch the facing to the zipper tape.  Close the zipper and attach a hook and eye fastener at the top of the placket.

Disney at Ruffles and Stuff is holding her first contest ever and she has some terrific prizes lined up!  It’s super easy to enter – just make anything you want around the theme of “ruffles” and email Disney with your entry before April 2nd.  Although ruffles are traditionally sewn, that isn’t a requirement for this contest as you can use paper or any other material you like, as long as your project contains ruffles.  You can even enter up to five times!  Visit Ruffles and Stuff for more details and to see pictures of the following prize lineup:

The GRAND PRIZE winner will receive:

An autographed copy of Amy Butler’s “In Stitches”, Amy’s “mini dress, tunic & tops”, and “weekender travel bag” patterns.
Autographed copy of author Shona Cole’s brand-new (and completely wonderful!)book; “the Artistic Mother”!
The Spring issue of Altered Couture (best magazine ever!).
This gorgeous felt ruffle skirt in a 2T from Kate Landers Events!
$50 Gift card to M&J Trimming!
One month’s free 160×160 advertising on Ruffles and Stuff’s sidebar for any website you choose (subject to approval).
Plus the first pick of any of my necklaces!

The SECOND PRIZE winner will receive:

Amy Butler’s “Madison Bags” pattern.
The Spring issue of Altered Couture.
And 2nd pick of any necklace!

The THIRD PRIZE winner will receive:

Amy Butler’s “Nappy Bag” pattern.
And third pick of any necklace!

Now is the time to get your business geared up for spring and summer sewing, and if I might add a note here — geared up to sew for plus size children would be a really good idea.  We’re already getting emails asking about our ready made patterns for plus size children — what actual childrens  measurements will they fit, etc.

We have many ready made patterns at our PlusSizeChildren site and these patterns are all made according to actual plus size childrens’ measurements.  Listed below is the chart that gives the body measurements for each of the size ranges:

Check out the difference between the “plus size” childrens measurements when compared to a regular child’s pattern.  The difference is that our plus size patterns were made using acutal measurements of plus size children – therefore you will have a much easier time fitting those plus size children.

Get the word out now that you will be sewing for those overweight and plus size children and I’m sure you’ll find plenty of business!  If you need a little extra help in getting set up to do the business of sewing for plus size children, visit the PlusSizeChildren.com site for information on starting this business.

Well I am still on that organizing kick and I found another project that I just had to share!  This fabric bowl tutorial at Xomba by DollsAndArt is a fast and easy craft project that only requires minimal sewing skills.  All you need to make your own fabric bowl is a clothesline, glue stick, fabric strips and a sewing machine with a zig zag stitch.  This is a great way to use up some scraps, or try using an inexpensive sheet from a dollar store or Goodwill.  It’s also a great project for kids or those just learning to sew as it just requires wrapping fabric strips around a clothesline and zigzagging the coiled clothesline together.  Click here for the fully illustrated instructions.

          After cutting out the stand up collar piece, you will apply interfacing using the same method as outlined for the flat collar, except that this will be a one piece collar, with a one piece interfacing. 

          Sew the shoulder seams and all neckline darts, then staystitch the neckline of the garment to prevent stretching (A).  Clip into the neckline at one inch intervals which will permit the collar to fit smoothly onto the garment.  Be careful not to cut through the stitching line. 

          With right sides together, pin the edge of the collar to the garment, matching the notches as you pin (B).  Stitch the seam and backstitch at each end to secure the stitching.

            Press the seam open, then press it up, toward the collar (C).

            Bring the facing edge down to line up with the neck seamline (D) and pin in place.  Slipstitch the facing to the garment along the neck seamline, removing the pins as you stitch.  Press the neckline seam. 

         Attach hook and eye fasteners so that the ends of the collar meet when fastened (E).  If you have a plain stand up collar, sew the two sets of hook and eye fasteners to the inside of the collar, placing one set at the neck and the other at the top of the collar.  If you have a “turn down” standing collar (F), you would still need to attach two sets of hook and eye fasteners as indicated previously, but one extra set of fasteners should be placed at the center of the turned-down portion.

        These “how to” tutorials are an excerpt from our book “Basic Clothing Construction”.   This book is a handy addition to have in your sewing room, so you can refer to the various sewing tips and tutorials at any time.

March is National Craft Month and there is still plenty of time to get involved and use the event in your promotion activities!  There are 63 million households that craft as a hobby and this is a great opportunity to host in-store events, hold contests or other craft themed promotions.

The Craft & Hobby Association, sponsors of National Craft Month for sixteen years, has put together lots of free resources to help you maximize your public relations, tips on holding classes and demonstrations and new ideas on how to use National Craft Month to increase your business.

Well, the reasons are many, and the lifestyles are so different among all of us, that each person has to map out his/her own “reasons” and desires regarding the work at home strategy.

I would venture to say that many of our readers, and those needing extra money, are in the “baby boomer” category just like me.  Or perhaps mothers with small children or children in school, but still want to be able to do something from home.

My biggest advantage of being able to work from home is that I can get my work done and still be able to interact with my 4 year old quadruplet grandbabies and their big 5 year old brother.  The little ones stay at our house about 2 days each week, just to give the parents some “breathing” room.  Hmmmmm, what kind of a “job” would I have to have in order to get 2 days a week vacation? None! 

I normally get up around 4:30 or 5 in the mornings, so can easily get some of my work done before they start getting up around 6:30 or so.   Then there is nap time, which gives me another hour or two of working, and they go to bed at 8:00, which gives me another hour or two  of work time, and still have the majority of my daytime “free” to do things with the kids.

I will have to admit that the work “hours” while the little ones are here is not a schedule that would work every day of the week for me, but the main thing is that I can STILL get some work done while they’re at our house.  If I had a regular 9-5 job, they would not be able to come to our house at all during the week.

Then there are the special days like “Grandparents eat lunch” at the school with our 5 year old kindergartner – something else I wouldn’t be able to do if working a regular full time job.

Assess your own situation and see what kind of home business would work out for you.  Are there ways you can get work done in order to make some extra dollars while working around your busy schedule?  It does take some time management and a strong desire to make it work.  However, once you’ve carved out some time each day for “family”, “work” and “self”, make up your mind that it WILL work, then stick with the plan.  You’ll be amazed at what you can accomplish once you have a workable schedule set up.

I’ve been on a bit of an organizing kick here lately so I fell in love when I saw these fabric storage cubes at the Obsessively Stitching blog!  There are lots of photos of each step and the design looks pretty easy to make using plastic canvas pieces as support for the cube “walls”.  I’m heading to my fabric stash now to check out some color combination possibilities!

Today we’re going to talk about how to attach and sew a rolled collar.

Sew the shoulder seams and any neckline darts before attaching the collar.  Staystitch the garment neck edge to prevent any stretching (A) while putting on the collar.

After sewing the front and back facings together at the shoulder seams, attach the facing with right side of facing toward the right side of the garment (B).  Pin the facing through the collar and garment pieces, matching the notches and shoulder seams.

With the facing side up, machine stitch the facing and collar to the garment.  Stitch each side directionally (C), from the center back to the garment front, backstitching at the ends to secure the stitching.  Remove the pins and any basting threads you may have used.

Press the seam allowances toward the facing (D).  Understitch the neck and garment opening seamlines (E) where necessary.  With the facing side up, stitch close to the seamline through all the seam allowances as indicated with the arrow.  Press the facing to the inside of the garment and tack the facing at the shoulder seams.

Next week we’ll cover how to attach a stand up collar.  These “how to” tutorials are an excerpt from our book “Basic Clothing Construction”.  This book is a handy addition to have in your sewing room, so you can refer to the various sewing tips and tutorials at any time.