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October 2010
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How To Sew A Separating Zipper

Sewing A Separating Zipper

          The separating zipper is best sewn in before any facings or hems are in place.

          To begin (A), machine baste the opening closed, then press the seam open.  Finish the seam if necessary with a zig zag stitch.  With the wrong side up, position the closed zipper face down on the seam allowances, centering the chain over the seam.  Extend the seam allowance and zipper tape.  

            Next (B), working on the right side of the garment, hand baste the seam allowances and zipper to the garment, 1/2” on either side of the seamline (5/8” from the seamline for heavy large-toothed jacket zippers).  Do not stitch across the bottom.

          Topstitch each side of the zipper (C), stitching slightly inside the hand basting.  Keep the stitching straight and the same distance from the center seam the entire length of the seam.  Pull the thread ends to the wrong side of the garment and tie.  Remove the hand bastings, then carefully open the center seam.

          Attach the facings (D) per instructions previously given, being careful to turn the facings under at a slight slant so they won’t be caught in the teeth.  When doing the hem, you will also need to turn the hem at a slight slant so it won’t get caught in the teeth and stitch in place.

          These “how to” tutorials are an excerpt from our book “Basic Clothing Construction”.   This book is a handy addition to have in your sewing room, so you can refer to the various sewing tips and tutorials at any time

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