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September 2010
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Set In Sleeves – Shirt Sleeve Method

          A second way to attach the set in sleeve is the shirt sleeve method, in which the sleeve is sewn into the armhole before the garment side seam and sleeve seams are stitched.  This method is usually used when the sleeves are less rounded and normally don’t have extra fullness at the cap of the sleeve (A).

         With right sides together (B), match the notches of the sleeve and the armhole opening, and pin in place.  Ease in any slight fullness as you are pinning.  Stitch the sleeve with the sleeve side up.

          Trim or clip (C) the seam allowances, then do a zig zag stitch along the seam allowance to finish the seam. 

          With right sides together (D) match and pin the underarm seam, and all notches on the side seam of the garment and sleeve.  Turn the armhole seam allowances toward the sleeve.  Stitch the garment/ sleeve seam in one continuous seam from the bottom of the garment to the bottom of the sleeve.

            Trim the cross-seam allowances (E) to reduce the bulkiness.  Press the sleeve/garment seam allowances open, and zig zag stitch along the edges to finish the seams. 

            These “how to” tutorials are an excerpt from our book “Basic Clothing Construction”.   This book is a handy addition to have in your sewing room, so you can refer to the various sewing tips and tutorials at any time

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Pattern Maker, Instructor & Author

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