Sometimes the curved edge on the set in sleeve measures more than the armhole circumference, such as with gathers along the shoulder line. This area will take special attention to get the gathers fitted into the right area.
Sew a row of “ease stitching” between the notches of the sleeve (A), to prevent stretching as well as to help ease the fabric into the armhole. With right sides together (B), pin baste then sew the underarm seam of the sleeve. Press the seam open. Sew the side seam of the garment and press the seam open.
Insert the sleeve into the armhole with right sides together. Pin at all notched markings and at the underarm seam line (C). Pull the bobbin thread ends from the “ease stitching” line to gather the excess fullness. Hold the sleeve in position and pin the fullness across the cap of the sleeve/shoulder line. Starting at the underarm seam (D) sew the sleeve in place. Remove all pins and ease stitching threads.
These “how to” tutorials are an excerpt from our book “Basic Clothing Construction”. This book is a handy addition to have in your sewing room, so you can refer to the various sewing tips and tutorials at any time