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March 2010
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How To Construct and Finish A Bias Facing

         Bias facings on blouses and dresses are not hard to do – in fact you can do a bias facing instead of putting on that collar that came with the pattern.  Here’s an easy and quick way to make and finish a bias facing. 

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          A bias strip should be twice the desired finished width plus two seam allowances (A); each seam allowance would be the same width as the garment seam allowance.  The length will equal the length of the edge being faced (B) plus 2” for ease and finishing. 

          Cut out the strip; fold it in half lengthwise.  Using a steam iron, press the strip flat.  Shape the strip by pressing it again (C), stretching and curving the folded edge to mold the raw edges into a curve that matches the edge being faced.  Keep the raw edges even.

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           With all the edges even, pin and baste the facing to the right side of the garment (D).  If the edges of the facing are slightly uneven from the shaping, trim and even them before pinning them to the garment.  Stitch along the seamline.  Remove the basting threads and pins that have been used.

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         Trim and grade the seam just made, making sure that the garment seam allowance is the widest (E).  Clip the seam allowance with the “clips” being about an inch apart.  Extend the facing up and away from the garment and press along the seamline.  Fold the ends of the facing to the inside. 

          Turn the facing to the inside of the garment.  Pin in place along the folded edge.  Slipstitch the edge and ends of the facing to the inside of the garment.  Remove the pins and press the facing.  If a zipper closing has been used, attach a hook and eye fastener at the top of the placket.

         These “how to” tutorials are an excerpt from our book “Basic Clothing Construction”.   This book is a handy addition to have in your sewing room, so you can refer to the various sewing tips and tutorials at any time.

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Pattern Maker, Instructor & Author

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