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Construction and Finishing Shaped Neckline Facings

Construction and finishing shaped neckline facings:

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             To help maintain the shape of the facing, and not stretch it, it is good to staystitch a line ¼” inside the neck seamline of each facing section, as indicated in the left hand illustration show above.

            With right sides together and the markings matched, stitch the front facing sections to the back facing sections at the shoulders.  Press the seams open.  Trim the seam allowance to half the width if working with a bulky fabric; if working with fabric that will ravel it is best to leave the regular seam width, then finish the seam with a zig zag stitch.

With right sides together (A), match the notches, markings and seamlines and pin the facing to the neck opening.  If a zipper has already been inserted into the garment, open the zipper and wrap the ends of the facing to the inside around each zipper half.  Baste the facing to the garment along the neck seam line.

 

            Stitch the facing to the garment (B) along the neck seamline.  Secure the stitching at both ends with a short backstitch.  Check to be sure that the neck seamlines will line up with each other when the zipper is closed.  Remove the basting threads and press the seam flat.

With right sides together (A), match the notches, markings and seamlines and pin the facing to the neck opening.  If a zipper has already been inserted into the garment, open the zipper and wrap the ends of the facing to the inside around each zipper half.  Baste the facing to the garment along the neck seam line.

 

            Stitch the facing to the garment (B) along the neck seamline.  Secure the stitching at both ends with a short backstitch.  Check to be sure that the neck seamlines will line up with each other when the zipper is closed.  Remove the basting threads and press the seam flat.

If the neckline you’re working with is square, the facing is attached the same way as for the round neckline, but you would need to reinforce the corners by using small stitches for about an inch on both sides of the corners.  In order for the collar to lay flat when turning, it is necessary to clip into the corners as indicated above, but make sure you don’t clip too far and cut into the stitching line.

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            After stitching the shoulder seams and pressing the seams flat you should finish the outer unnotched edge of the facing.  You can either turn under about ¼” seam (A) to finish, or if you’re working with a fabric that won’t ravel you can either simply pink the edges, or pink them and sew a seam close to the pinked edge to minimize stretching and raveling.

Attaching the shaped facings:

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            With right sides together (A), match the notches, markings and seamlines and pin the facing to the neck opening.  If a zipper has already been inserted into the garment, open the zipper and wrap the ends of the facing to the inside around each zipper half.  Baste the facing to the garment along the neck seam line.

            Stitch the facing to the garment (B) along the neck seamline.  Secure the stitching at both ends with a short backstitch.  Check to be sure that the neck seamlines will line up with each other when the zipper is closed.  Remove the basting threads and press the seam flat.

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             If the neckline you’re working with is square, the facing is attached the same way as for the round neckline, but you would need to reinforce the corners by using small stitches for about an inch on both sides of the corners.  In order for the collar to lay flat when turning, it is necessary to clip into the corners as indicated above, but make sure you don’t clip too far and cut into the stitching line.

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          After stitching the facing, place the seam, wrong side up, over a tailor’s ham (D), and using the tip of the iron, press the seam open.  Press carefully and lightly to prevent the seam edges from making an imprint on the right side of the garment. 

          Next, still from the wrong side of the garment, with the facing extended away from you (E), press all the seam allowances toward the facing.  Press carefully so you don’t crease either the facing or the garment.

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           Turn the facing to the inside of the garment, allowing the seamline to roll inside slightly.  Line up the facing and garment seamlines and center markings, then press along the neck edge (F).  Once the facings are lined up and pressed, they will need to be tacked in place at the seam lines.  You can either use several closely spaced whipstitches (left illustration (G)) or use a cross stitch tack (right illustration (G)), catching only the facing edge and the seam allowances of the garment.

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            To secure the facing at the zipper it will be necessary to told the facing ends under and pin to the zipper tape. Make sure that the facing will not be caught in the zipper.  Open the zipper and slipstitch the facing to the zipper tape.  Close the zipper and attach a hook and eye fastener at the top of the placket.

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