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February 2010
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Construction Of A Two Piece Rolled Collar

A ROLLED COLLAR first stands up from the neck edge, then falls down to rest on the garment.

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With right sides together, match the notches and pin the upper collar to the under collar along the outer seam line (A), leaving the neck edges open.  If necessary, stretch the under collar slightly to fit the upper collar.  Machine stitch the outer seam line as shown above.

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Trim and grade the seam allowances, making the seam allowance nearest the upper collar the widest (B).  Trim across the corners and taper the seam allowances on both sides of the corners.  Clip the curved seam being careful not to cut into the stitches.

Press the entire seam open on a tailor’s ham ( c).

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 With the under dollar side up (D), understitch close to the seam line, catching all of the seam allowances.  Turn the collar right side out (E).  Press the collar, working the outer seamline slightly toward the under collar side so that it won’t show from the upper side.

Next week we’ll cover how to attach and sew a rolled collar.  These “how to” tutorials are an excerpt from our book “Basic Clothing Construction”.  This book is a handy addition to have in your sewing room, so you can refer to the various sewing tips and tutorials at any time.

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Pattern Maker, Instructor & Author

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