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January 2010
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Tutorial – Construction Of A Flat Collar

Awhile back I did a post entitled “Types Of Collars”,  with those types being flat, standing and rolled.  I said I’d do a tutorial on how to construct and attach each of those collar types, then got sidetracked onto other topics.  Today, and for the next several weeks, I will pass along the tutorials for you.

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After cutting out the pattern pieces and interfacing as indicated in the pattern package, you will first apply the interfacing to the wrong side of each under collar.  With the right sides together, match, pin and baste each upper collar to each under collar, leaving the neck edges open (A).

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Stitch each unit along the outer seam line (B), again leaving the neck edges open.  Use short stitches at the corners for reinforcement.  Stitch across the corners to “blunt” them (as shown in the SEAMS section).   Trim and grade the seam allowances (C), trim across the corners and clip the curved seam allowances, being careful not to clip through the seam line.

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Press all of the seams open over a tailor’s ham (D). Next press the seam allowances toward the under collar (E).  The last step in preparing the collar for sewing is to turn the collar units right side out.  An easy way to pull out the corners is to thread a needle with a short length of thread, and make a large “knot” at the end.  Push the needle through from the inside of the corner to the outside as indicated above; pull the needle through and the knot will pull the corner through where it needs to be.  You can then just reach inside the collar the pull the knot back far enough to cut it off and pull the rest of the threaded needle on out.

Next week we’ll cover how to attach and sew the flat collar.  These “how to” tutorials are an excerpt from our book “Basic Clothing Construction”.  This book is a handy addition to have in your sewing room, so you can refer to the various sewing tips and tutorials at any time.

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Pattern Maker, Instructor & Author

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